Beyond Cica, Centella Extracellular Vesicles Show 34% Wrinkle Reduction in 28-Day Trial
Cica has become a staple of sensitive skin and barrier repair routines. Madecassoside and asiaticoside, the primary active compounds in centella asiatica, are now ingredients consumers can identify by name. What researchers are investigating next is how to get those same compounds deeper into skin tissue, more efficiently. The answer may be extracellular vesicles.
A pilot clinical study published in MDPI Cosmetics in 2026 tested a centella EV serum over 28 days and measured results across three key skin parameters.
What extracellular vesicles are
Extracellular vesicles (EVs) are nano-scale particles naturally produced and secreted by plant cells. They range from approximately 30 to 200 nanometers in diameter, making them invisible to standard microscopy. Their defining structural feature is a lipid bilayer membrane, essentially the same type of membrane that surrounds human cells.
This membrane structure is the functional advantage. Because EVs share structural properties with skin cell membranes, they can interact directly with those membranes through fusion or endocytosis (the process by which cells internalize external material). Active compounds carried inside the EV reach the interior of target cells rather than sitting on the surface or diffusing through the stratum corneum by passive means alone.
Standard centella extracts deliver madecassoside and asiaticoside as water-soluble compounds. EV delivery reframes the problem: instead of asking how much of the compound can penetrate the skin barrier, the vesicle itself is designed to cross it.
The 28-day pilot results
Three outcomes were measured after 28 days of centella EV serum application.
Hydration increase: 14.6 to 21.2%. Improved barrier function reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), allowing the stratum corneum to retain more moisture.
Wrinkle reduction: 32.9 to 34.8%. Measured at periorbital and forehead sites.
Redness reduction: 26.3 to 34.0%. A marker of reduced inflammatory activity in superficial skin layers.
The study is a pilot, meaning the participant pool is small. Replication at scale will be needed before these numbers can be treated as established benchmarks. That said, consistent improvement across all three parameters in the same cohort is a meaningful early signal.
Liposome encapsulation and wound closure
Related research in the same area tested centella compounds encapsulated in liposomes (lipid membrane delivery vehicles) rather than natural EVs. In a wound closure assay, liposome-encapsulated centella achieved 99.9% wound closure by Day 12.
Liposomes and EVs both use lipid membrane structures for delivery, but EVs are naturally derived from plant cells rather than synthetically assembled. Whether that distinction translates into meaningful performance differences in formulated skincare products is an active research question.
What to look for in products
Centella EV formulations are currently concentrated in the premium skincare segment. When evaluating ingredient lists, look for terms such as “centella extracellular vesicle,” “centella EV,” or “centella nanoparticle.” Pricing for 30ml serums in global retail ranges from $50 to $130, positioning them above standard cica serum ranges.
The category does not yet have standardized labeling conventions, so concentrations and EV quality can vary substantially between brands. As with any emerging delivery technology, formulation method and manufacturing quality determine how much of the pilot trial performance actually transfers to the consumer product.
The larger pattern
The centella EV story is part of a broader shift in skincare science toward delivery efficiency. The relevant research question is no longer only what active compounds do, but how to ensure they reach the right depth in the right form. Centella is a useful case study because the active compounds are well characterized. The EV research is essentially asking whether there is a more precise way to use an ingredient that already works.